Ask McNab! Questions and Answers.

Backpacks?

2012-01-23T12:01:00.000-08:00

Hi Neil

Sounds like you're having a great season. Loving the Go Pro footage. I've just ordered one myself and will be bringing it to Norway.

I'm after a bit of advice about backpacks. I'm looking for a new 35L pack and had a look at the Ortovox Haute Route 35. However, the lower side straps are non-adjustable and according to the specs are too small to take the tail of a Solution in split mode. I guess they've been designed only with conventional skis in mind. Otherwise it looks like a really nice pack. Do you know if there is a way around this for when you may wish to carry the board in split mode? Or maybe you could recommend another good 35L pack?

Cheers

Simon Tuffen

Hi Simon,

You can put the splitboard across the Ortovox pack as a pair of skis.I prefer to put them on the side but this is a good pack and for the few times you need to carry your board as skis this works fine. I would however recommend the 45 ltr haute route pack over the 35L. It isn't much bigger on your back but fits your kit in a lot easier than the 35l.

Neil.

New Board/bindings and training regime?

2012-01-23T11:50:00.000-08:00

Dear Neil,

I came on your tech course 3/4 seasons ago and following that completed BASI level 1 Since then steadily trying to progress and push my riding etc. I would be really grateful if you could give me your thoughts on the following :-

1. Need to replace my board and bindings after 3 years. I was Riding Super Model X trad camber (now obsolete) and Salomon relay XLT's. Looking for an All Mountain board. I borrowed a TRice last season and just could not get on with its hybrid camber at all. Any thoughts on board and bindings to aid progression would be much appreciated.

2. Any specific Gym work to help improve riding ? I am doing mostly compound exercises and climbing once a week but I just wondered if there was anything specific you have found good over the years ? I know you are super busy so no sweat if you take a pass.

Best wishes and hope to see you for split boarding course asap,

Matt

Hi Matt,

For an all round board the Jones Mtn Twin is great, easy to ride and fun to play around on. For a more serious ride, the Jones Flagship takes freeriding to the next level.

For bindings I've not found anything that beats the Burton Cartel and would recommend them to anyone.

Gym work – I work on leg power with free weight squats and Dead lifts, power lunges and lots of cycling.

I try to work out 4 times a week when I am riding during the winter, either an hour on the bike or half an hour if doing the weights.

Hope this helps?

Neil.

Which board - Short or long?

2011-12-09T02:55:00.000-08:00

Hi Neil,

Hope you are good and your happy with the snow for the first guests. Although, you are in Les Deux Alps, for this week according to Tosh. Good?

I am at a loss about split-board length. I have the option of a trice 61.5 or 64.5. Who like to quibble over a couple of cm's, hey?

I like to jib in the pow, but will have a heavier pack for touring. My normal powder board is a trice 61 and great for everything but the deepest pow.

My weight is 74kg / 163pounds and the min weight for the boards is 130+ pounds and 140+ pounds (not that this is that relevant).

Would you have any wise thoughts about which to go for? Obviously, longer would be better for the hikes.

Many thanks.

I owe you one extra thick hot chocolate at Carlo's. Or a hot Grappa if you prefer.

Tim

Hi Tim,

Over In Tignes at the moment not L2Alpes (Tosh never was very good at directions/places etc).

You pretty much answered this yourself! ’Longer would be better for hikes’ but I’d also add ‘also better for Freeriding’!!!

A Splitboard will always ride slightly softer than a normal board due to it being cut in half! The softer flex makes them easier to flex into the turn and easier to bend for a shorter radius turn even with a slightly longer board length.

The extra weight added by a touring pack will also make a big difference, so I’d say go for the longer option.

There’s a bit of a Myth about long boards being harder to turn and play about on, today with rocker tip and tails and boards designed for specific things a longer freeride board (with Cam rock, such as the Flagship and the power banana/Libs) can offer you the same manouverability as a short board with the added edge stability of a long board.

Hope this helps!

Neil.

Splitboard equipment?

2011-12-09T02:35:00.000-08:00

Hi,

hope all's well.

I'm looking to get a split setup for the course in feb, this is what I'm after;

Jones solution 163w
Spark blaze bindings
Spark mr chomps crampon
Black diamond expedition poles
Black diamond glidelite mix sts 140mm skins

If there are any items that you would recommend (or anything i've missed out) (do i need an additional mounting system for the bindings?) instead of the items listed above then I'd be very keen to hear any alternatives.

Thank you!

Best

James

Hi James,

Your list looks good but check out the Black Diamond ‘distance trekking pole’ as an alternative to the exped pole. This is a lightweight collapse-able pole that fits easily into your pack.

You’ll need the Voile mounting system for the bindings. This will give you the plastic pucks that the bindings slide onto plus the heel raiser and touring bracket.

Spark do a light weight touring bracket and touring pin system ‘LT pin system’ which reduces the weight of your set up and adds a nice finish.

Also check out the Karakoram Splitboard binding system! I haven’t tried these bindings yet but by all accounts they are very good and work on a new system.

Neil.

Solution or Flagship?

2011-12-09T02:14:00.000-08:00

Hi,

Ref the Jones board, I'm now thinking of buying the Solution 163w instead of the Flagship! Ride it this year with my normal Bindings (Burton Cartel) and then next season get some split bindings, skins etc. Could you give me some feed back on riding a solution as a normal board, would there be much change in performance between the two boards?

Thanks,
Jon.

Hi Jon,

The Flagship and the Solution are based on the same model. The Solution though does compromise some performance due to it being a Splitboard, this also adds some weight to it which is noticeable when you’re riding but is something you’ll probably get used to pretty quickly. The Flagship is an amazing board in all terrain and for all riding, it is very playful and versatile where as the Solution, although the same model, is more specific to what it is designed for (in that you wouldn’t take it into the park or ‘play’ around on it around the resort too much). I’d say both boards are great but they do what they are designed to do, so the Flagship does everything where as the Solution is a pure BC Freeride board that copes with everything.

One of the biggest compromises with the Solution or any splitboard for that matter comes from the bindings or from using your own bindings! With a well adjusted splitboard specific binding, I’d say you can get close to between 80 or 90% workability out of the Solution. With a normal binding mounted on a Voile mounting plate I’d say this drops down to below 60% with too much movement, a raised up feeling giving balance issues and a complete loss of feeling for the board and the edge.

If you want to tour and this is your priority then get the Solution, but also get the bindings and skins to go with it. If you’re looking for something to ride and don’t want to tour until next season get the Flagship now and the Solution when you feel the need.

At the end of the day its your decision and based on what you can afford etc. but my advice would be if you get the Solution ‘then also get the specific bindings’ or get the Flagship for now.

Hope this helps!

Neil.

Airbag backpacks. Yes or No?

2011-11-30T03:30:00.000-08:00

Hi Neil,

I've been looking at kit for this season and something that keeps nagging at me is why I haven't yet looked seriously at an airbag system. There's an awful lot of comment on the internet and it looks like ABS and Snowpulse systems both have their merits, however the real decision seems to be buy one of the bags rather than than which system.

Do you have any thoughts on the use of airbags? If i remember correctly you have an ABS bag, but I don't think you ride with it all the time.

Cheers,
Liam

Hi Liam,

I got to the point where I was thinking that I should have an airbag
system, the only thing stopping me was the price. At the end of the day it
could be a life saving piece of equipment so the cost is kind of
irrelevant!

I had lots of reasons for getting one and none against so it wasn't really
an issue in the end. I thought, if I'm thinking about getting one, then I
should just get one. The day you're out there and happy to have it on will
make it well worth it avalanche or no avalanche.

At the end of the day, I still take all the precautions that I'd take when
riding with out it. I plan on never needing it, but its kind of nice to
know its there.

Whether they work or not in the time of need, who knows? But its one more
thing that might put the odds in your favour and that's all I need to know.

I don't ride with mine all the time, they're pretty heavy for daily use
but if there's any kind of avalanche risk then it's my first choice pack
for sure.

Snow pulse seems to be a good system with the airbags coming up around
your neck. They are also now starting to have well designed zip on volumes
for their base rig.

ABS is tried and tested and I prefer the handle on the ABS system.

Both work on the same principle so look at both and see which you prefer.

If you're asking me this question then you should just get one!

Neil.

Backpacks for BC courses

2011-11-18T06:31:00.001-08:00

Can you recommend a 30L or 35L backpack suitable for back-country tour course?

Adam

Hi Adam,

There's a few backpacks that stand out.

The Ortovox 35 haute route is a good pack, comfortable and well made. Bit fiddly with the straps for carrying a board but once you get it dialled in its a very nice pack and probably my first choice.

If you're looking for something with a bit of avalanche protection thrown in the ABS packs and the snow pulse are the ones to look at. You buy a base pack with different size volumes that zip on.

BCA (Backcountry access) do a good pack called the 'stash', very simple, good board attachments, a no nonsense does everything pack!

Black diamond do a nice pack called the outlaw which comes with an Avalung. 35 Ltr, good straps, well made and a nice fit.

Check these out and see what you think.

Neil.

Splitboard bindings?

2011-11-18T06:21:00.000-08:00

I've ordered a Solution splitboard from TSA and wondered if you could recommend buying Karakoram bindings from America or the Spark bindings.

Cheers,

Darren.

Hi Darren,

I've not yet tried the Karakoram bindings but have heard good reviews for them and will get a set to try before to long and so will know more then. They look well made and Jeremy Jones now uses them and really rates them so I'm sure they're pretty good. I am interested to see how the stance options work for wide stances and big feet (centering the bindings etc.) but until I get a set and play around with them I'll not be able to comment. I have heard that the Karakoram bindings help to stiffen the board so this might be a plus point that could sway your decision.

The Spark bindings from last year were a step in the right direction but the high backs where too soft and the straps were low quality. This season they have improved both these points and so you get a good binding that works on the Voile mounting system, once you get this set up to your stance and dialled in then you get a good system that works well. I have ordered Salomon high backs for all the Spark bindings that I have from last year as they fit really well and really improve the binding. I'll probably get new straps too, but the binding works well and I had no issues with them last season. I dialled mine in with Cartel highbacks and straps and they worked very well.

At the end of the day its up to you, both obviously work so its a matter of costs and availability. Until I try the Karakoram bindings I can't really say any more!

Sorry I can't be more decisive for you!

Neil.

Splitboard bindings?

2011-11-11T08:43:00.001-08:00

Neil,

Looking at jones solution splitboard, I'm thinking of the 161 as it matches my height and weight.

Do you have an opinion on the bindings, spark or voile?

Can't remember what you had on your boards last year.

Liam

Hey Liam,

As the splitboards ride a little softer than a normal board I think you can ride them longer in length.

The new Solution however has been stiffened up a touch so the 161 is probably good for you.

Last year I used the Spark R&D binding but changed the straps and high back for Burton Cartels, this year Spark have stiffened their high back and changed the straps to Burton straps anyway so its a pretty good set up now. One of the guys had the Voile bindings in greenland and they looked pretty good and he seemed happy with them. There's also the new Karakoram system on the market this year which is worth a look and looks like a pretty solid set up.

I've not tried the Karakoram set up yet but will try them and report back. The New Spark set up looks pretty good and the system works well, the Voile I've not tried but it looks solid enough, between the Voile and the Spark I'd probably be inclined to favour the spark as I know it.

I'll keep the Sparks on my test fleet but upgrade the highbacks and straps.

Hope this helps,

Neil.

Board choice?

2011-11-10T09:59:00.000-08:00

Hi Neil

Hope to ride with you again soon!

Am looking to get a new board. Never really gelled with the Salomon I got 2 seasons ago.

Gwri recommended a Jeremy Jones that was great on Ice?

I am a UK size 11 Boot

What do you recommend.

Regards

Rob Croydon

Hi Rob,

Sorry I haven't been in touch, I'd say go for the Jones Flagship 163XL or the 168XL, easier to ride than a Salomon, turns super easy, super stable in carves and floats like a dream in the powder.

This board has changed my life!

If you give Ruth a shout she'll get you a 15% discount from TSA.

Neil.

Snowboard instructor question!

2011-11-08T10:05:00.000-08:00

I am looking at becoming a part-time snowboard instructor so I can help at Dry slopes and Snow-domes in the UK mainly.

It looks like most require a BASI qualification though - Can you tell me a little more about what you do differently and similar to BASI?

I've bought your book and DVD and like the way you teach it so would be interested in some of your courses as well later down the line.

Thanks Rob

Hi Rob,

BASI specialise in teaching people how to teach snowboarding and provide qualifications in doing this.

I specialise in teaching people how to be better snowboarders, how to understand Snowboarding and how to ride the mountains natural terrain.

The techniques I teach follow the same rules as the techniques taught on BASI courses as I initially worked for BASI developing their courses but I now concentrate on developing each individuals performance were as a BASI course concentrates on teaching progressions, teaching you how to teach the basics of Snowboarding.

If you want to be a Snowboard instructor you will definitely need to follow the BASI system. (this will allow you to work in the UK but unfortunately not in the rest of Europe.)

If you want to be a better Snowboarder then out of my courses you'd need to attend the Tech clinic.

Hope this helps and good luck with your progression.

Neil.

Snowboard boots or Ski Randonee boots for touring?

2011-10-10T01:59:00.000-07:00

Hiya Neil,

I was wondering if you might be able to give me some advice? Have you ever used ski touring / randonee boots for snowboarding, as they're so much more versatile than snowboard boots? Any advice would be gratefully received.

Best regards,

Dan.

Hi Dan,

For me the beauty of Snowboarding is the feeling you get when riding down the mountain, so any touring I do on my board is primarily about trying to keep the compromise of equipment to a minimum and the feeling of the ride to a maximum.

With the set up I use now, splitboard specific bindings, customised and set up specifically to suit the performance I need and a Jones Solution Splitboard, I feel I have found a pretty good system that works both up and down the mountain.

I have never felt the need for a stiffer ski randonne style boot. On steep traverses, if necessary, I use a couteau/crampon on my splitboard and occasionaly I'll take a more Splitboard specific/friendly route than that used by ski tourers but boot wise I find Snowboard boots much more comfortable and as versatile as Ski boots.

Off your board, on steep terrain you'll probably be using a boot specific crampon whether in ski boots of snowboard boots and if its too steep or icy for snowboard boots then I'd probably be already questioning the conditions and suitability with regards the descent or looking for an alternative ascent but you can climb some pretty steep terrain with crampons on snowboard boots.

I've never felt compromised in my snowboard boots (and I ski tour too!) and prefer to be in them rather than ski touring boots.

If you're looking for a compromise you should have a look at the new Deelux Spark touring specific Snowboardboot which has a vibram sole!

Some people do splitboard in ski touring boots but personally its not what I'm looking for out of a day out touring in the Backcountry, which is a great days hiking and riding!.

Hope this helps?

Neil.

Boot binding interface?

2011-01-29T02:50:00.000-08:00

My first post on this forum, hope to get some answers

I have new custom bindings from burton. Very nice, good quality, but i've got a problem with my imperium boots when I put them in. When I press the heel down, flat on the surface of the binding, i can't seem to line the back of the booth with the back of the binding, there is always a gap in the middle of the back between boot and binding.
I can also press the boot close to the back of the binding, without the gap, but then I have a gap between the heel of the boot and the surface of the binding ...
I never realy noticed this, until now when i bought new boots and I was about to adjust the bindings to these boots.

So should the boots align the heelback or the baseplate? Or both?

Thanks for any help!

Hi Matthias,

In answer to your questions.

Firstly, yes your boot should be flat to the binding and set right to the back of the heel cup, against the high back/spoiler.

I don’t know the boot model you have but if there is a gap there it could be a couple of things.

If you have a lot of forward lean on your spoiler then this might leave a gap in the heel cup.

I use a lot of forward lean and close the gap by putting my toe down first on the toe plate and pushing my heel tightly into the heel cup of the binding. This is easiest done standing up with the board resting angled on its heel edge.

If its not forward lean then the boot could be too wide for the binding. If this is the case you could try shaving some of the width off the sole of the boot?

I’d have thought however that if you tighten your heel strap enough, it will pull the boot back into the heel cup and sort out the problem.

Your heel strap wants to be super tight, if it can’t go tight enough to pull the boot back then shorten the strap with the adjustment. If this leaves it too long, which can be the case on the large Burton bindings, get yourself some medium heel straps.

A couple of other adjustments you should consider for this problem.

Move the heel strap a little higher over your instep/ankle by moving the heel strap attachment point to the higher hole on the inside of the binding.

Rotate the high back inline with the edge of the board, this will increase the amount of room in the heel cup a little.

At the end of the day, tightening the heel strap fully should get rid of this problem.

Hope this helps?

Neil.

Technique question.

2011-01-27T12:04:00.000-08:00

Hi Neil

I injured my ankle about 13 yrs ago which involved causing some big damage (possibly tearing) the 3 tendons / ligaments on the inside of my right ankle.

Of course being young I didn’t look for any physio advice and I hoped it got better by itself.

I didn’t walk on it for about 5 weeks so as it healed everything really tightened up. I first noticed the implications of this walking uphill as I would only put the toe of the foot down.

Since the injury I have ridden 6 full seasons as well as 2 or 3 trips every year when I haven’t been in resort for the season. I have always been aware of the lack of flexion in my back ankle and more so since I suffered an extended fracture to the tibia plateau of my R knee 4 yrs ago (requiring a lot of metal work down to mid shin)

If I keep both heels on the ground and drop my knees to flex my ankles my left knee will easily drop to at least 1” below the furthest point I can force my right knee (before the R heel un-weights or comes off the ground). This movement restriction has obvious implications on how I can weight different parts of the board.

I tend to compensate by riding with a lot of negative angle on my back foot (-9 to -12) this allows flexion of the knee inside the stance – ie a little tucked. I am tempted to start trying to ride with even more neg on that foot to see if I can get a little more flexion – but I think it will affect how much I can load up the tail with pop and or stability out of turns and on landings.

Maybe another option would be to pack the heel of my right boot slightly and put a little more forward lean on the binding which could put it all into a slightly pre flexed position?

I would like to think I have a good technique and have ridden a lot with a BASI(1) trainer over the years, I had a few days in Solden last year with one of the Aussie trainers who improved my riding so much in the steepest terrain. I tried for the NZ instructors course in 2002 but failed (partly due to lack of demonstrable flexion).

When I was riding all the time I just dealt with it – not wanting to whinge too much. But its an issue I have never got to the bottom of.

What are your thoughts on my ideas of excessive neg stance or packing the heel? Do you have any experience of this issue in others – if so do you have any suggestions?

If you don’t – no worries!

All the best

Tom

Hi Tom,

A couple of questions so I can understand what is going on better.

You say you have negative angle in order to tuck your knee inside your stance? For me negative angle is used in order to get the pressure outside of the stance towards the rear of the board and so move the knee in the opposite direction towards the tail of the board.

I use pressure in the nose and tail of the board and not so much in the middle. Moving your knee towards the rear of the board would mean you could flex the rear of the board in the end of the turn and balance better with out needing so much ankle flex?

Why do you want to flex to the inside of the stance?

Flexion is for balance. When you edge the board you need to flex in order to keep your centre of gravity over the edge. On the heel edge the majority of this flex comes from the knee joint and hip joint. Spreading the knees wider enables this balancing movement. This shouldn’t be restricted by your ankle.

Balance on the toe edge comes from spreading the knees wider, flexing the knees with a slight flex in the hip and ankle. The amount of flex in the ankle need not be great as the knees can do most of the flexion. Spreading the knees outwards keeps the bio mechanics of the body correct and also enables pressure to the nose and tail in order to bend and flex the board to make it turn.

I’m not sure why you’d feel the need to tuck your knee inside the stance? If you have your feet in a duck stance then you should be able to spread your knees outwards and so balance better and not need so much ankle flex?

With a stiff ankle or boot you can still balance on your toe edge and effectively edge the board.

On the heel edge ankle flex isn’t an issue.

So like I say I’m not sure why you’d want to have negative angle and then roll you knee to the inside? This goes against the bio mechanics of the body and the ankle and knee joints as well as bringing pressure to the middle of the board and so you then can’t bend the tail to finish the turn?

Maybe I missed something in your explanation but it seems to me that you need to develop your use and understanding of pressure to the nose and tail in order to bend and flex the board so this it turns by flex and design.

Also, If you did want to tuck in your knee I’d have thought a flatter angle would allow the ankle to roll inwards more effectively?

Let me know if any of this makes sense to you. Many people ride with very stiff boots as like I said ankle flex is useful but not essential for effective snowboarding.

Neil.

Hi Neil

thanks for the reply I appreciate you are busy at the moment.

The tuck is only apparent when I am really trying to rail the board over as hard as I can on toe edge, and my knees are almost on the snow.

I don’t use the negative angle to tuck my knee inside my stance – rather – I can only achieve compression on my toe side edge by allowing the knee to tuck in due the restricted movement of the tendons on the inside of the ankle. I hope that makes sense. As such I feel the negative angle allows some compensation for the tucked knee….

On my heelside the knee goes out as it should(as you point out due to limited ankle flex necessary on that edge).

If I try to spread my knees wider on a toe edge I cannot achieve anything like the same compression and related board performance as when I allow the back knee to tuck.

The ankle is so tight on the inside it will not allow the lower leg to roll outwards.

I was having a good feel of it just a couple of days ago and when I was carving around switch I realised that the restricted movement really affected how quickly and powerfully I could initiate to the toe edge switch, due to not being able to articulate the knee towards the nose of the board. I can carve around switch on a stiff 169 without losing the edge on mellow terrain - and ride powder switch on a skate banana. But as soon as it gets challenging I don’t have the flexion to cope with a real toe edge bite and it feels weak on the bumpy / chopped up stuff (all when riding switch).

I am sorry if it sounds woolly, your writing is very clear and concise, and I understand immediately the points you make. If you don’t understand the issues I am having I will have to pull my finger out and enrol on one of your courses at the beginning of next season! I really enjoy working on technique and discussing how these things work so it would be of great value!

Tom

Hi Tom,

I think to comment better I'd really have to see you ride and have a look at what you do. It sounds like your understanding of technique is good so I'd need to see for myself really.

One thing I could suggest is that you try a board with camber between the feet and rocker from the foot to tip and tail like the jones twin or flagship or yes boards. The rocker from under the foot brings the turn initiation point under your foot and so you don't need to move pressure so far forward and can easily initiate a turn by straight pedalling across the board with minimal pressure toward tip and tail?

Just a thought but I'd need to see your ride to comment further.

Neil.

Climbing/touring harness?

2010-12-09T00:18:00.000-08:00

Hi Neil,

Quick question if I may.

I'm thinking of purchasing a ski touring harness for this season (and in particular for the split-board touring couse with yourself in March) and wondered if you had any recommendations?

Is something like the 'Black Diamond Alpine Bod' harness sufficient? It seems a fairly close match to the type of harness I've borrowed from you in the past:

Or is it worth splashing out on something super-lightweight like the Arc'teryx A300a? (although the difference between the two is seemingly only about 100g ... which is probably less than the weight of chocolate and energy bars I'll carry! :-)

As ever I'd appreciate your thoughts.

Many thanks,

Richard

Hi Rich,

The alpine BOD is a great mountaineering and touring harness, easy to get on and off with out stepping through leg loops etc so good with crampons etc. For steep climbing it lacks the comfort and precision of a climbing specific harness and is as you mentioned slightly heavier due to the material it is made from and can get wetter than a more synthetic harness on the plus side, it is however very durable.

It also takes up slightly more room in your pack than one of the super light harness’s available now.

I use the BD bod most of the time and have these for clients as they are adjustable and super easy to get on and off. The BD Bod, now comes with a waist loop for easy clipping.

If you need a harness for climbing as well as touring or are looking for something light weight have a look at the Petzl Sama or something like that.

Light weight, thicker leg loops for comfort, a great climbing harness, not specific for touring etc but works for everything. It’s a step through harness but you only have to really do this in the morning and when you’re done so no bother. It has elasticated leg loops as opposed to adjustable ones normally found on a mountaineering harness, but this is fine. If I'm mountaineering in the summer I'll use this type of harness as it is lighter and more stashable.

Petzl also have some good mountaineerig specific harness's which are more durable if this is what you're after.

The Arc’teryx range are also top end so it depends what you need it for and how much you want to spend.

Hope this helps!

If you have any further questions let me know.

Neil.

Split boarding question.

2010-12-07T08:05:00.000-08:00

Hi Neil,

I'm beginning to get excited about the winter again and just checking through my kit and deciding where to spend my money pre-season.

I have a few questions for you regarding split-boarding, I had some issues using the skis for side hilling and ascending steep slopes, particularly on ice (spring in the Alps) and deep powder (canadian rockies).

I am using my ride contrabands at the moment but am thinking of getting some Spark RD bindings.

My first question is, do you think SB specific bindings will significantly help the weight distributon on the ski making these parts of the ascent easier?

My DC boots are fairly heavy, and are too wide for crampons. I found in the alps that I was often forced to take the skis off and kick steps on the hard morning snow as I was constantly slipping back. In some situations the lack of crampons was quite scary.

I have considered buying harchisen (sp??) for the skis but i was wondering if riding with mountaineering boots (i currently have scarpa freneys), or buying a new, lighter and narrower pair of boots that would take pons would be a better solution.

I have riden with mountain boots before and as long as the bindings are set well i find going down fine, although certainly less responsive than when wearing proper boots) basically, would you consider bindings or boots to be more crucial in split-board mountaineering?

Hi Ecky,

The Spark R&D bindings or Split specific bindings will make a difference as they are pinned to the width of the whole binding and straight to the ski when split rather than the narrow raised mount that is common with using a normal binding.

They’ll also improve the performance on descent too!

On steeper ascents and icy terrain you'll always have difficulty with sliding on a split board due to the width of the ski (when the board is split) this is the same when touring with wide skis.

With the split board you sometimes have to take a different different line than the normal skinning trail that ski tourers might take and harchisen are essential.

Even ski touring skis will slip in icy conditions with out harchisen (crampons). Spark r&d make a Split board specific harchisen which works specifically with their binding.

The 2 go hand in hand, I'd never suggest touring with out harchisen especially here in the Alps.

With regards you question about boot specific crampons, Grivel make a wide full strap crampon that works with very wide snowboard boots.

I personally use an Alloy crampon for Snow and easy Ice scrambling such as the one made by Camp.

I'd not recommend an Alloy crampon for use on hard ice or rock and ice but for snow its makes for a lightweight option.

Again I'd never be with out a pair of regular crampons when out touring in the Alps.

I'm not a big fan of riding in mountaineering boots. I'm hiking up for the big descent and so wouldn't want to compromise the ride down for the sake of the ascent.

I'd say, check out the wide Grivel crampons to see if they'll work with your boots. I think they should.

Definitely get your self some Spark r&d Split specific bindings and harchisen.

Don't always follow the regular ski touring line of ascent, if you can see a better more suitable way break a new trail.

Hope this helps,

Neil.

Jones Snowboard question.

2010-12-07T06:30:00.000-08:00

Hi Neil,

I did a few BC courses with you 2002/03 but am more of a 'holiday' rider nowadays. I wanted your advice on Jones snowboard. I am 90kg size 10uk (salomon F20) so is it a wide board for me (not sure on JONES size specs). Mountain Twin looks good to me as I don't think I need the extra length like flagship as my BC riding is limited....thanks

Hi Chris,

I've just been out riding the all mountain twin 164 wide today.

Very nice board, super easy to ride and very nippy from turn to turn.

Easy to ride off piste, the rocker tip and tail help the nose ride up and the tail sink in the powder so saves the back leg burn but it is a little short for stability at speed.

It's a real fun board for jibbing around on but as I mentioned, for me at least, a little short for higher speed stability so for general freeriding I'd definitely choose the 168 W Flagship.

Size 10 uk is not problem on this board.

The Jones All mountain twin and flagship boards are designed with camber under foot and a rocker tip and tail. The turn initiation point is brought closer to the foot by the rocker so they initiate turns like a board much shorter than the given length. Once on the edge, the board uses the full edge length so has the stability of the given length. Don't be scared off by the longer length of the 168 flagship if you're looking for an all mountain freeride board as it rides real easy. If you're looking for something to jib around on and play around the pistes then the A-M-Twin is great.

Hope this helps,

Neil.

Greenland expedition question.

2010-12-02T01:06:00.000-08:00

Hi,
I'm interested in the Greenland expedition. Is there a plan to run a similar trip for the 2011/12 season? This is the kind of snowboarding adventure I have always aspired to do, but it'll take some saving! Cheers Alex

Hi Alex,

I’m not sure where my 2012 trip will be too as yet. I try to access and explore new locations each year. As Greenland is so big and unexplored it seems pretty likely that I’ll be running a trip there at some point in the not to distant future but I’m not sure if it will be 2012. I quite fancy heading back to the Northern Fjords of Norway again so might organize this for 2012.

There is one space left on this years trip so I have attached the program to give you a better idea of what’s involved.

In the mean time build up your BC experience, ride hard and keep in touch.

Neil.

Jones Snowboard question.

2010-12-02T01:03:00.000-08:00

I was hoping Neil could advise me regarding my board. In short, I am wondering whether or not I ought to buy a dedicated freeriding board to get the most out of this course:

My current board is only one year old, so I am not in a hurry to buy a new one. However, if it Neil thinks I will learn more and have more fun on a different board, I will consider getting a new one (in that case I may take up the Jones Flagship special offer.

Current board: Lib Tech Skunk Ape 161, Wide, symmetrical twin tip, reverse camber, Magnetraction. I weigh about 95 kg, am 1m89 tall, and have pretty huge feet

I have used this board off-piste quite a lot last year and it went well, but I did notice I needed quite some steepness and speed to “float” (plus, of course, that the centered stance was quite hard work for my rear leg in the powder.

My key question: In terms of maximizing how much I advance my skills (and fun!) during the course (and not be wallowing in the powder where the slopes are less steep), do you think I should get a larger, directional powder board without the full reverse camber? And if so, would the Jones Flagship 168W be large enough for someone of my weight?

Hi Alex,

I have tried to answer your questions below concerning your board dilema.

I think however, you’ve pretty much answered it for your self.

You’re 95kg and 1m89 with big feet and you’re riding a 161?

Personally with these dimensions I’d recommend the minimum board length 164 and better still 166.

Board length does depend a lot on the flex of the board but with your height I’d say you need to be riding a pretty wide stance which will take up quite a lot of the board length leaving very little board to ride at the tip and tail on a 161. This you might get away with jibbing about on the piste and in the park but for general riding and for Off Piste riding you’re always going to be working to balance and keep the board floating on the top.

I’m pretty similar in stats to you and will be riding the 168W flagship. The turn initiation on the flag ship rides like a smaller board so its easy to use, yet the longer edge has the stability of a big freeride board once the board is carving. Forget about back leg burn, this board lives to float. All we need then is plenty of powder!

You will get away with riding your current board but will progress a lot more on a bigger board (in my opinion). It basically comes down to how much you’re going to ride, what sort of riding you want to do and can you afford a new board (or can you afford not to get one?).

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Look forward to riding with you soon.

Neil.

Can you snowboard in Mountaineering/climbing boots?

2010-12-02T00:57:00.000-08:00

Hi Neil,

*stupid question alert* I have a chicken-and-egg situation. I really fancy buying a splitboard and trying mountaineering routes with said board on my rucksack. E.g. Fiacaill Ridge. Is it do-able to do mountaineering routes, with B3 boots, ice tools and protection, then snowboard off.. e.g. down Aladdin's? I know it'll depend on the skill of the climber to some extent, but I mean on a more general basis.. is it do-able? Perhaps with one half of the splitboard on either side of the rucksack in the ski holders? Best, Kenny

Hi Kenny,

Yeah this is entirely feasible but riding in mountaineering boots isn’t the most comfortable thing in the world so I’d try it out before you go diving down Aladdin’s. The other option in this case is to climb and ride in Ski touring boots which take crampons and hard boot clip in bindings which I think you can get for split boards through Voile?

Sportiva came out with a mountaineering boot a while ago, I think it was called the Nuptse, which was meant to be ok for snowboarding in. I had a pair for climbing in but never rode in them.

I have climbed quite efficiently with crampons in my Snowboard boots as well!

Everything is obviously condition dependent.

Good luck and be safe!

Neil.

Jones Snowboard question.

2010-12-02T00:54:00.000-08:00

I've ordered a new Flagship JJones board and am wondering if I've gone for the right length. I'm 183cm and 80kg and have opted for 161cm. I was wondering if you could ask Neil whether this was best length?

Hi Luke,

In answer to your question about the board, with the details you’ve given I’d say go for the 164 rather than the 161! It’s an easy to turn board and the extra length isn’t hard to handle.
See if you can make the change and I look forward to ridding with you soon.

Neil.

Jones Snowboard question.

2010-12-02T00:51:00.000-08:00

Hi Neil,

The snowboard question I have relates to the size of the board I have ordered. I weigh around 73kg and I am wondering if the 164cm Flagship might be a bit on the long side for me. I read on the McNab website that Neil is currently riding the Flagship and was hoping he may be able to give me some advice re. the size. I am going to Japan in February and I'm a bit worried that a 164cm might be difficult to manoeuvre through the trees!

Hi Mark,

With regards the following question about the Flagship.

The flagship has rocker at the tip and tail, which brings the turn initiation points closer to your front foot, making it initiate turns like a shorter board. Once on the edge, the edge length includes the rocker tip and tail and so it is more stable riding as a longer board. This is a full on Freeride board and is made for the powder so the 164 is the perfect choice for you!

It’ll be amazing in the trees, don’t worry, just look at the gaps not the trees and it will rock!

Neil.

Question on Technique!

2010-06-03T01:45:00.000-07:00

Hi Neil

I re-read your book at the start of every season, and hope to make it
to one of your courses one day. Meanwhile, I have something that is
perhaps more of an observation than a question. If I were to phrase it
as a question, then the question would be "why is this?" - but I
already have a theory about that too.

Anyway: I first discovered your web writings and bought your book in
the spring of 2008, towards the end of my first "comeback season"
after the birth of my son. So for a few days then, and all last
season, I was really trying to learn and work pressure point
technique. I think it's working, and my confidence and the fluidity of
my riding have improved immensely. It's not fully there yet - I still
feel some skid in almost all my turns except on very easy ground, and
I still get episodes of Back Thigh Burn when I get tired and stop
paying attention to proper technique. But it's getting better.

(Are scraping noises on hard pistes inevitably a symptom of skidded
turns, or do they happen anyway even if you're carving properly?)

But here's the interesting thing: I also took to heart your advice
about learning to ride switch, and I try to put in a few turns
"backwards" whenever I find myself on a very gentle slope. It's roving
difficult, but I'm getting to the point where I can link three-four
turns before I either lose my nerve, forget to look where I'm going
when I'm riding heelside, and/or just fall over. But n the course of
those three-four turns, it quite often happens that on a toeside turn,
my edge *really* carves, the board rails round and I'm going uphill,
surprised, before I really know what's happening. This, I assume
(apart from the surprise and going-all-the-way-round-and back-uphill
bit) is what a *proper* carved turn feels like, and it's a feeling I'm
still sadly unfamiliar with from my non-switch riding.

My theory about why this is: I'm learning riding switch from scratch
using pressure point technique, without any previously learned riding
habits, so I can actually carve better - for the tiny bit of riding I
can sustain so far - than I can riding "forwards" with the residue of
old bad habits.

What do you think?

regards
Alan Little

My Reply.

Hi Alan,

You have raised some interesting points and show a good awareness of what you're doing.

here's some answers to your questions.

Hope it helps!

With regards your question on skidding and working the pressure points!

The board is designed to turn in an arc if it runs along the length of its edge. How the boards if then flexed dictates the shape and radius of the arc. In order to run the board along its edge cleanly the edge change must be made in line with where your momentum is going at the point of edge change (so rolling the board over into the new turn rather than rotating it).

If there is any rotation during the entry to the turn there will be a certain amount of skidding through out the arc which needs to be controlled.

Most of the time we try to control our speed by the line we take (where we point the board at the exit to the turn. Imagine riding a bike down a steep open slope with out brakes and controlling your speed by how much you turn, you'd be surprised how much you have to turn back up the hill). Occasionally however if our speed is too great for the arc we need to make we can loose/scrub off some excess speed through skidding.

Skidding is not necessarily wrong, but with regards freeriding we are a lot more efficient with the terrain we ride if we can control our speed by the line we take and match our riding to the terrain.

The back thigh burn you mention is normal. The end of the turn is made through bending the back of the board (A and D in the book) and there is also a lot more pressure to deal with at the end of a turn than at the beginning, hence the rear thigh generally does a lot more work resisting forces.

On a hard icy piste where the edge grip is lessened it is sometime harder to flex the board into the shape needed to execute a smooth carve and so some skidding might result.

In order to make perfect carves on hard snow you need to be really balanced and focused on the feeling you're getting through your feet and over your edges. Its all about timing the pressure movements to fit in with the feedback your getting from your board.

With regards your question on riding Switch!

This is partly correct, you're learning from scratch so having to work on correct technique a little more. Also, and this is probably the main reason, when you're riding switch you are probably not rotating into your turns, which is a habit that from what you have already said I bet you do with out really noticing. As you are lined up better on your toe edge switch the board is in effect able to work naturally and so indeed it will carve an arc so long as you are able to balance over the edge. In order to work the shape of the arc you need to be in a position were by you can flex the board along its length from tip to tail.

I often feel that I ride technically better switch than forwards as it makes me more conscious of what I'm doing through my feet.

In summary then!

My advice to you is to really think about the line you ride. Make sure that the line you ride is controlling your speed effectively.

Most snowboarders don't turn enough, especially on their toe side turns as they leave their body facing down the hill and look straight down the slope and hence don't finish of this turn effectively. This brings too much speed into the heel side turn which then skids more or skips out.

Most riders thing that their heel side turn is their weak link were as actually its the badly finished toe side turn that over loads the heel side turn.

Most riders actually finish off their heel side turn more effectively (and have to as there is excess speed to get rid of from the toe turn).

Get the right line and everything will come together. Your speed will be managed effectively giving you more time to work on perfecting your technique and as you'll not be accelerating out of turns too much you'll be able to roll your edge change rather than rush it.

Hope this helps!
Neil.

Jones Snowboards question.

2010-05-27T01:45:00.000-07:00

Hi Neil,
I have a quick question for you. Do you know when or where the Jones snowboards are up for sale?
I had a look on the specs of the boards and they look promising.

Thank you!

Regards,

Rob

Hi Rob,

Not sure where you’ll find the jones boards, I don’t think they are in the shops yet!! But they should be on sale towards the Autumn time.

I know the TSA (the snowboard asylum) in the UK will have them so you could try contacting them through their web site? I think you can even buy them on line through them.

Which board were you looking at?

I like the look of the flagship and the mountain Twin for the sort of riding you’re building up to and these modles have a good size range. The mountain twin is a bit more all round, the Flagship is definitiely freeride focused.

I’m going to pretty much ride the Flagship for everything I do.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Neil.

Which Snowshoes?

2009-12-17T05:07:00.000-08:00

Hi Neil,

I have been looking into which Snowshoes might be best for backcountry snowboarding. I think I have found two brands - TSL and MSR that look the best.

I wanted your advice on which might suit for trips the best and some general advice on using and carrying snowshoes.

The MSR Denali Evo Ascent shoes look a bit more portable than the MSR Lightning Ascent version. This appeals to me, as when I saw the Lighting Ascent in TSA last week they looked quite big! Do you tend to carry these strapped to your backpack?

I was worried that falling on them might hurt a lot! Especially as they have the sharp metal edges etc. The TSL brand is better value for money and I think made in France (nice!) . They look like the main body is made from a tough plastic? Am I right?

I have not managed to find any shops in South East of UK that have these for me to look at. I have been trying for a while!!!

I think from your website (great BTW!) that you hire these out on your courses, obviously you rate them. Would you always carry these on the outside of your pack?

Which model is the best? The 325?

I assume all these options would fit normal snowboard soft boots fine? I like the look of the rachet bindings on the TSL models.

Again, It is proving tricky to try my actual boots in them, so I would really value your advice.

Off to Gulmarg for a week late January. Hoping not to have to use them too much, but I have been told to bring some in case we need to hike a bit.

Many Thanks,

Graeme.

My Reply!

Hi Greame,

I’d always recommend the MSR snowshoes, either the Denali (which is the one I use and have had the same pair for 10 years) or the evo. The MSR’s have good straps to fit any boot, are robust and have a good grip for traversing and climbing steep slopes.

More expensive but they’ll last!

I carry my snowshoes on the pack when riding using the vertical board carrying straps with poles stashed with them or on the side of my pack. I’ve never had any trouble carrying them here!

If I’ve got my board on my back too (every now and then its too steep of snowshoes) then I’ll either stick them on the sides using the compression straps on the pack or ratchet them to the heel strap of the bindings.

Hope this helps, have a great time in Gulmarg, I’m guiding a trip there in Jan!

Neil.

In reply to a technical pressure theory question!

2009-12-10T01:29:00.000-08:00

The Theory!

Hi Neil
Just want run this past you..

Just recently I have been thinking about a few riding things. It is to do with pressure along the board and as Iknow that you are the guru of this shit I thought you would give it some thought. I have to admit that I have not read your book so maybe you already talk about this.

I feel that everyone talks constantly about the four corners of the board (which are of utmost importance) but what about the centre? The place where the board has its most natural flex?

This has come about from riding with (and watching) a couple of lads in Courchevel. One is called Manu and is the Rossignol Test rider and one is Ameryick (one of Toms old friends and was the French Boardercross champion). They both have a slightlyfunky style eg Terje H with knee tuck and slightly rotated (old school) but they can get board performance that I (and defiantly none of the other trainers) can get.

So to start with this is about allowing your board to take its natural flex and give you the best results at slow speed.

Go to a lovely wide open cruisy piste and do slow carved turns. To do this you have to cross over high, balance on the edge and then as you come through the falline the forces allow you to increase tilt and sit into the turn so you end up with a J shaped turn.

Do this again and as you engage the new edge bring your knees together. The board will bend like shit even at a slow speed and you can make a C shaped turn at WALKING PACE.

At this point I should point out that I only say bring your knees together to over exaggerate something. As time goes on it will only be “ride gently on the inside of your soles” The way this effects the way the board can flex is phenomenal. You can tilt way inside the turn before the falline rather than stand up, balance and then wait to pass through the falline to influence the shape of the turn.

I started doing this to get a feel for it then started going fore to engage, holding to the inside of both feet through the middle of the turn and then banging my back knee out towards the end for maximum aft. I was taking off at walking speed..

I have only had this working at slow speeds i.e. slow enough were you can’t cross over low and actively press against the board. When I have tried it at full tilt I have felt unstable and had to press towards the corners to stabilize myself. Is this because it is no good at speed or just that I am not skilful enough to get the timing right or is it just unnecessary? I feel like it might be a pile of shit but I know I have had some amazing feelings from it and if the 4 corners are so important then surely the centre of the board is also. This is where I get back to not “knee tucking” but using the inside of the feet to allow the board its maximum natural flex as well as the outside of the feet to find the corners of the board. If we constantly force out the feet it prevents the board bending naturally.

I tried this with a group on an ISIA teaching course and the only person who didn’t agree with it was a lad who could not move to the inside of his feet equally so he was not on the centre of his board so he lost the camber. It has to be both knees equally to keep centred and really make the board bend. I told him this but he would not have it.

When you do this what do you gain and lose? Inside of the feet equals less stability but far more bend of the board and vice versa. Because you lose a little stability people don’t like it but if you are precise it works well.

Please do not think I am saying ride the whole turn on the inside of the feet. It is a purely a moment during the turn between fore and aft that really helps influence the bend of the board/shape of the turn. The timing is really hard so that is why I think I can’t do it at speed yet but it might be valid.

In summary: All I hear people talking about is the 4 corners and think they move to them far too quickly and miss out the main part of the board i.e. the middle where it flexes the most naturally. Use the corners to grip at the start and end but use the middle to influence what goes on between those points. Is this what you were trying to tell me years ago?

Just a few thoughts dude. I have just re-read and it sounds like waffle. I am no writer. I need to be on the hill with you to explain this properly. I am just trying to find better feelings on my board and I know that is what you have always been into. I hope it makes sense. Try it. Whether you agree or not, get back to me. I always like a bit of input/other ideas.

My reply:

I understand what you're saying with your flex text.

The middle of the board is massively under used and the whole idea of the banana technology is designed for this part of the board to be already flexed into a carved and pressurized shape before and during the turn. That and obviously for bringing the nose up in powder. The side cut also does this in a normal board, the camber fights against it and so enables you to be able to apply more pressure through the board without it over flexing.

To me banana tech seems a bit pointless as it reduces the amount of pressure you can use in the front and the back of the board to start and finish your turns as well as pre-flexing the middle and so again reducing the amount of pressure you can out through the middle too.

Another new board has a camber under the feet and reverse camber tip and tail as in the YES boards. Again this reduces the amount of pressure you can work with in the tip and tail and makes it more work to get it at the start and finish of the turn. It does make buttering easier and the nose float in powder obviously. Better than the full reverse camber but is it better than a traditional stick? Not sure!

I personally don't really use the middle of the board that much. As soon as the turn starts I'm trying to get to the back of the board which is the strongest bit and has the most side cut. This is where the power comes from for me and this is where I'll generate the pressure rebound I need to start the next turn.

If you look at the physics, a turn will always start at the front point of contact on the edge. The pressure will then move down the board passing under the front foot, through the middle (which is where your experimentation comes into play), to the inside of the rear foot, through under the rear foot and out to the rear and last point of contact on the board.

This is basically how the pressure moves throughout a turn! In every turn there is a time when in theory the pressure moves to the inside edge of both feet and is focused in the center of the board. If you wanted to focus on this point in the turn you'd need to focus on the pressure using the inside edges of your feet (I talk about moving feet over moving knees as I like to keep everything from the ground up as this is where the action needs to be) which in turn would bring your knees towards the center of the board.

Although I personally don't do this I can follow your theory. I personally do feel that I use pressure through the board just in-front of and directly through my rear foot, (this is about as near to the center of the board that I go). In order to apply pressure through the foot just in front of the rear foot a slightly rotated position brings you bio mechanically in line with where the pressure needs to be whilst maintaining balance and opposing/controlling pressure from the front foot.

Originally board were designed to be ridden through the middle hence the old tuck knee style of riding and massive extreme side-cuts. Only recently have boards been designed to be ridden through the tip and tail and I think in terms of maximizing the potential for this style of riding there's still some way to go with flex patterns that are softer tip to tail under the feet whilst not being torsionally softer and with power and stiffness under the feet and through to the tip and tail contact points whilst being progressively stiffer towards the tail.

In the end its all about matching your movements to suit the task or outcome you need. If you can understand the theory behind how the pressure works with the board then you can adjust the pressure to focus it where you need it to make the board work through out the turn. If this means extra focus on the middle of the board then driving the knees together will definitely bring the pressure to the middle. Bio-mechanically its not going to be the best position for body flex and balance but in actual fact your body will adjust naturally to compensate and maintain order.

Like I said at the start personally once my turn has started I'm usually focused on getting pressure to the rear of the board straight away and playing with it around my rear foot, both in-front of it (in a longer turn) and then out the back to the rear contact point to finish the turn off.

For sure the longer the radius the turn is or the slower it is executed the longer you'd need to focus pressure around the center of the board as you suggested.

Let me know what you think.

Neil.

In reply to a question on ABS packs.

2009-12-10T00:44:00.000-08:00

In reply to a question on ABS packs.
Do most people attending your courses use ABS packs? What do you think of them?

My reply:

For my courses I recommend a good quality pack of around 30litres with good board carrying capabilities. At 30 Litres you are able to get everything in the pack with out having it all hanging off the sides. Having all your kit, shovel, probe etc on view might make you look like you're a Backcountry expert but you don't look so cool if you need the kit and find its not there after having it ripped off the pack in the event of a fall?

As a guide I have to carry lots of extra kit in my pack for emergencies but I still find a pack of around 30 litres works for me.

I think the ABS packs are a great idea and use one in Russia for heli boarding where i don't have to carry so much as its all in the heli. They are a little heavier than a normal pack and bigger per volume as they have all the air bags and gas cylinders inside.

The idea is that you prepare the handle for ready before you drop into a big descent. Again as I have said in the past about this sort of kit, the danger is that it makes you more likely to take greater risks that you might otherwise take.

In the event of a slide you simply pull the handle and the airbags increase your volume and in theory keep you on the top. With skis that release I can see this being very effective. With a snowboard that can act as a bit of anchor it might not work quite so well. At the end of the day though its got to help!

They are pricey but if you can afford one then go for it! I say anything that ups your chances of survival in the event of an avalanche is worth the extra cost.

Also check out the Snowpulse packs which are similar but surround your neck too.

Simple is best so don’t go for a pack with too many special features. Something big enough to fit everything in with good straps for attaching your board and comfy is king.

Neil.

In reply to a question on the Avalung!

2009-11-07T05:13:00.001-08:00

Hi Neil,

I was doing some research last night and I came across the Avalung product I know it's not a mandatory piece of equipment (another expense) but was wondering if you have one or had considered getting one?

My reply:

There's a black diamond backpack with the avalung built into the shoulder strap which I think is a good idea!

I think the avalung is a good idea in principle and if built into a pack is a very good addition. If you buy one as a separate piece of kit you have to decide whether to wear it or not but I guess if you're wearing a transceiver then you probably wear the avalaung at the same time! But then there are days when you might get out there and wish you had it and so you need to then wear it all the time which might not always be practical. I guess you can always have it in your backpack and wear it when ever you head off piste?

My concern with it is that it might give you a false sense of safety or make you take a risk where normally you might not have?

The way it works is that if you are about to ride a big powder slope you are meant to 'start' off with it in your mouth ready as a precaution.

My thoughts are that if you feel the need to have an avalung in your mouth before you drop into a slope then you probably should pick a different option in terms of your choice of descent?

At the end of the day anything that gives you better odds is however a bonus.

For me, decision making in the backcountry is all about weighing up the odds and balancing things on the side of caution. If the Avalung tips the scales the wrong way then its not a good thing, if used wisely however as an extra precautionary measure whilst being cautious then I can see only benefits!

If you're thinking of getting one, get one!

Neil.

In reply to a question on Backcountry packs and Avalanche search and rescue kit!

2009-11-06T04:22:00.000-08:00

Hi Neil,

I'm looking at buying a new backpack suitable for one of your courses. Do you have any recommendations?

Also I know you provide Transceiver, shovel and probe but If I wanted to buy them what would you recommend?

My reply:

I ride for The North Face and they have a few good New packs out this year which I have given some input toward over the past few seasons.

Check out the new TNF liftie 23L and the TNF NFZ 28L. These are the packs that I'll be using this coming season and they look really good.

There is also the regular TNF Off Chute 27L and the TNF Chugach 17L if you're looking for just a good smaller volume Off piste style pack.

For transceiver, shovel and probe I use the Ortovox equipment. The new totally digital Ortovox S1 transceiver is very easy to use and very efficient for multiple searches and comes highly recommended but at a price. The Ortovox D3 is also a very good digital tranceiver, slightly cheaper and more systematic to use but highly efficient once you have your search procedure in place.

I have always been a big fan of the Ortovox F1, a fool proof analogue transceiver which again needs a systematic search procedure but is highly effective once you know the score. (I have some of these to sell from my stocks so check out the goodies page on the www.mcnabsnowboarding.com we site!)

For shovels, make sure you get a metal bladed one, I use the Ortovox Pro Alu 2.

Probes come in different lengths but around 2.5m is as short as I'd go. I use the Ortovox 240cm Carbon pfa.

I have secured a McNab Snowboarding clients deal with Ortovox for this coming season so anyone booking a course with me this winter will receive a discount deal on selected products.

Hope this helps!

Neil.

In reply to a question on snowboard kit!

2009-11-06T03:52:00.000-08:00

Hi Neil
Looking to get myself a GNU or Lib Tech Banana Magna Traction Board for this season.

Given I only ride Freeride on/off piste (not into jumps yet), using your technique is it better to go for a stiffer board or something a bit softer (like a freestyle board) to help it flex?

Any advice much appreciated.

My Reply:

To be honest with good technique you can pretty much ride any board!

For Freeriding, I go slightly longer so that at speed I have extra stability on the edge. Say for playting around jibbing etc I’ll ride a 162/163 so for freeriding and most all mountain riding I’ll ride a 166. With the extra length I don’t want the board to be super stiff as I need to be able to bend it to make it turn. If its too soft however I’m going to bend it too much when I’m up to speed! A good all round Freeride/freestyle board does pretty much everything, I’m not into boards that are super specific as I like to ride everything so I don’t want a full on powder stick or a floppy jib stick as it limits things.

I have to say I’m not convinced about the whole banana technology myself and it was interesting to see at the ski show this year there aren’t so many true bananas around this year and the new thing is camber under the feet and banana tech nose and tail?

I can see how this banana technology makes the board rise up in powder and easier for buttering tricks but for all mountain riding and cruising I can’t see how it can help. If you’re trying to apply pressure to the nose and tail of the board to make it steer into and out of turns then I can’t see the point of bending the board so that pressure is reduced in these areas.

I know people that rate the banana but I also know riders that rated them last year but aren’t riding them this year?

If you want one I think there’ll be a few on e-bay in the next year or so!

Magna traction is good if you can carve clean lines for sure, but if you can carve clean lines then you probably don’t need it as you are already using your edge pretty effectively. It does work and there are a few new boards with this sort of effect built into the edge but to me all of these things are used for sales pitch and if you can ride and carve well you probably don’t need it.

I guess I’m not a gimmick person, I like a board with good flex and pop with a good all round shape which is good fun to ride!

I ride the wide boards as I”m size 10 foot so ride the salomon special magnum but if it wide enough, and I think it might just be I’m going to also get the Salomon ‘sick stick’ to play around on this winter.

The choice is yours but I’d say save your cash and get a good all rounder!

What you think?

Neil.

Questions and Answers!

2009-11-05T02:41:00.000-08:00

I've been getting quite a few questions about Snowboard kit, Backcountry kit and general fitness advice for the coming winter and so have decided to open a question and answers forum here. I'll be posting some of the questions and advice I have already answered and then you can start to raise your own topics right here on this page.

Let it be know, the answers are here!

Neil.